"TRUTH OF GIFT INSTITUTE AHMEDABAD"
Industry needs designers who possess updated designing skills along with good communication & presentation skills too. Industry doesn't require those designers who unnecessarily explain & give justification about his/her design work?
GOOD DESIGN DOESN'T NEED SUPPORT
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NATURAL FIBRE:
“PLANT BASED CELLULOSIC
FIBRES”
COTTON – pure cellulose shrub fibre
FLAX – vegetable, bast, herbaceous fibre
JUTE – vegetable Indian family plant bast fibre
RAMIE – lustrous and nettle family fibre “rhea fibre”
HEMP – “cottonization” herbaceous plant
HEMP-PALM – Chinese/Japanese palm leaves
COIR – coconut fibre
RAFFIA – raffia palm fibre
BAMBOO – grass pulp fibre
PINE – pineapple leaf fibre
SISAL – tropical Mexican plant leaf fibre
SOY PROTEIN – tofu manufacturing waste fibre
ABACA – Manila hemp
BHINDI “LADY FINGER” – vegetable fibre
BYSSUS – fine linen or cotton fibre
MODAL - beech tree soft plant fibre and
BANANA – tropical plant tree fibre etc.
ANIMAL BASED PROTEIN FIBRES:
WOOL – sheep wool
LAMBSWOOL – lamb’s wool
CASHMERE WOOL – Indian Cashmere goat hair
MOHAIR WOOL – North African Angora goat
ALPACA/VICUNA/GUANACO/LLAMA
WOOL – South American Camelid
varieties
ANGORA WOOL – Angora rabbit “wool type hair”
RABBIT – rabbit’s hair
YAK – ox shaggy hair
CAMEL HAIR – Arabian dromedary and northeast Asian Bactrian
Camel hair wool
SILK – mulberry, muga, eri, tropical tasar and oak tasar
silk fibre
CHIENGORA – ladies hair etc.
SYNTHETIC AND SEMISYNTHETIC
“MAN MADE” FIBRES:
RAYON [VISCOSE] – semi synthetic regenerated cellulose fibre
ACETATE - semi synthetic
cellulose fibre
TENCEL – wood pulp semi synthetic cellulose fibre
POLYESTER – polymer, polyethylene, terephthalate fibre
ACRYLIC – acrylonitrile fibre
LUREX – polyamide, polyester fibre
NYLON – polyamide fibre
LYCRA [SPANDEX] – polyurethane fibre
ARAMID – aromatic polyamide fibre
INGEO - polylactide fibre
LUMINEX – optics fibre
LYOCELL – cellulose fibre
OLEFIN – polyethylene, polypropylene fibre
PLA fibre - POLYLACTIDE – polymers, lactic acid fibre etc.
METALLIC FIBRE: Metallic fibre are
drawn from ductile metals such as copper, gold, and silver and extruded or
deposited from more brittle, such as nickel, aluminum, iron and stainless steel.
FIBREGLASS: Fiberglass is
made from specific glass, which is optical fibre which comes from after
purified natural quartz. Source of this fibre is silica fibre which got made
out of sodium silicate. And its basalt
fibre is made from melted basalt.
MINERAL FIBRES: Asbestos is
very common mineral fibre.
POLYMER FIBRES: Polymer Fibers
are a subset of man-made fibres, which is based on synthetic chemicals rather
than arising from natural materials by mechanical or physical process. These
fibres are made from:
Polyamide nylon
PET or PBT polyester
Phenol-formaldehyde “PF”
Polyvinyl chloride fibre “PVC”
vinyon
Polyolefin’s “PP and PE”
olefin fibre
Acrylic polyester, pure
polyester PAN fibres
Aromatic polyamide
Polyethylene PE
Polyurethane fibre and
Elastolefin etc
MICROFIBRES: Micro fibres in
textile, is refer to sub-denier fibre [such as polyester drawn to 0.5 denier].
Denier and Detex are two measurements of fibre yield on weight and length. If
fibre density is known then that is fibre diameter, otherwise it is simpler to measure
in micrometer. Because mostly all synthetic fibres are round in cross-section
but specially design fibres can be hollow, oval, star-shaped or trilobal. Synthetic
textile fibres are crimped to provide bulk in textile may be woven or knitted
structure. These fibres surface is dull or bright. Dull surfaces reflect more
light while bright tends to transmit light and make the fibre more transparent.
TEXTILE FIBRES ARE PUZZLE:
To
learn in detail about Textile Fibers, which presently are available and in use,
is not one man job, because each textile fibre character is differ to others
with its own minute accepting rigidity while using in textile spinning dyeing
printing and processing.
Without
fibres and fibres knowledge, no one can think good textile or make and if you
wants to make good and more good textile, then learn all different textile fibers
tactilely, see physically its softness stiffness smoothness bulkiness length
wise coarser or thickness etc, chemically for other part of textile dyeing, printing,
processing and heat drying or fabric setting
systems and possibilities, for blends of textile, its playable ability and
fibres physical strength along with its tenacity elasticity [curliness/spring
type/spiral or its natural ups and down like slub], Breaking strength with
absorb moisture from nature and its flammability etc.
United
Textile is not complicated, it is as easy as you breath, just learn as above
said mention then you yourself will find always “Textile is your baby” which
helps you for mixing different fibres in spinning, dyeing, printing and
processing and every time you will develop new textile, which will satisfy
human egos. And if you see other way around as above said mention textile
knowledge, one can dye the fibres in different colours and mixed them as you
need in different textile fibers and spin, you will again finds in weaving
different textile which can be redeye for its sheen to form colour glow on
fabric surface and after fabric process setting you will find new look in
textile fabric. Another way one can use fiber dyed yarn in design while weaving
and there is no end in textile designing,
one can print textile surface, on
the same textile fabric for another value addition in textile designing, that
shows textile and textile designing is most enjoyable subject with
its working and living.
The
most promising is that, you are able to solve all textile puzzle of your own,
if you follows the above said mention little knowledge in your practice. As we
all aware of that many things we sees but mostly unseen for us and we knows many things but actually we knows not, that
is why we claim we did something new but what about when you do every day then it
becomes very normal phenomena to solve little, little textile puzzle in your
development and that is a habit not achievement, that’s the way textile
industry grows with every season and time.
Textile
fibres are complex structure and its character in their individual unit is bulge
with another textile fibres, is a mystic and to understand that for making good
and more good textile in versatile feel and look, one need to study their behavior
to solve the puzzle for onwards process of textile.
NATURAL FIBRES: Natural Fibres are those which is treasure criteria of God creation and that include plants, animals and those which geologically processed on/in earth and sea, with the permission of almighty God, which he sees while sitting high on throne of authority and more which human yet to discover by God permission the above said.
VEGETABLE FIBRES: Vegetable Fibres are generally based of cellulose often with lignin, for examples cotton, flax, jute, hemp, ramie and sisal etc. Plant fibres are used in manufacturing paper and textile and its dietary fibres [leaf stalk and seeds] are very important component for human needs as nutrition, other useful byproduct development and for medicines to cure human much complicate illness naturally.
WOOD FIBRES: Wood Fibres are different and distinguished from vegetable fibres, because its source is tree. Wood fibres forms from ground wood thermomechanical pulp [TMP] should be bleached or unbleached Kraft [wood Kraft] for as needed lightness in colour by sulphite to convert byproduct. Kraft [craft] and sulphite process is used to bring out lignin bonding from original wood structure and this freeing lignin from wood pulp gelatin, then is collected and wash to make free of sulphite than dry, fibres is ready to make paper or wood product such as fibre board and fine quality of lignin is used for textile by same or similar type process.
ANIMAL FIBERS: Animal Fibres consist in largely proteins, for example silkworm, wool, hair and chshmere wool, mohair and angora are all protein fibres, etc
MAN-MADE FIBRES OR SYNTHETIC FIBRES: Man-made Fibres or chemical fibres, these are fibres whose chemical composition, structure and properties are significantly modified during its manufacturing process.
Source of synthetic fibres
comes entirely from synthetic materials such as petrochemicals, unlike those
man-made fibres which derived from natural substances as cellulose or protein.
CELLULOSE FIBRES: Cellulose Fibres are subset of man-made fibres, which is regenerated from natural cellulose and its sources, is mainly beech trees [large tree with grey bark and pale wood] and bamboos. Process of getting lignin of these trees pulp is almost same as mention above wood fibres.
SEMI-SYNTHETIC FIBRES: Semi-synthetic Fibres are made of from raw materials, which has naturally long chain of polymer structure chemistry, which modified and partially degraded by chemicals. Which is in contrast of complete synthetic fibres such as nylon [polyamide] or Dacron [polyester], which chemist synthesizes from low-molecular weight compounds by polymerization [chain-building] for its reaction. The first semi-synthetic fibre is rayon [viscose] viscose rayon fibres are developed as dictate fibre and triacetate fibre.
METALLIC FIBRE: Metallic fibre are drawn from ductile metals such as copper, gold, and silver and extruded or deposited from more brittle, such as nickel, aluminum, iron and stainless steel.
FIBREGLASS: Fiberglass is made from specific glass, which is optical fibre which comes from after purified natural quartz. Source of this fibre is silica fibre which got made out of sodium silicate. And its basalt fibre is made from melted basalt.
MINERAL FIBRES: Asbestos is very common mineral fibre.
POLYMER FIBRES: Polymer Fibers are a subset of man-made fibres, which is based on synthetic chemicals rather than arising from natural materials by mechanical or physical process. These fibres are made from:
Polyamide nylon
PET or PBT polyester
Phenol-formaldehyde “PF”
Polyvinyl chloride fibre “PVC”
vinyon
Polyolefin’s “PP and PE”
olefin fibre
Acrylic polyester, pure
polyester PAN fibres
Aromatic polyamide
Polyethylene PE
Polyurethane fibre and
Elastolefin etc
MICROFIBRES: Micro fibres in textile, is refer to sub-denier fibre [such as polyester drawn to 0.5 denier]. Denier and Detex are two measurements of fibre yield on weight and length. If fibre density is known then that is fibre diameter, otherwise it is simpler to measure in micrometer. Because mostly all synthetic fibres are round in cross-section but specially design fibres can be hollow, oval, star-shaped or trilobal. Synthetic textile fibres are crimped to provide bulk in textile may be woven or knitted structure. These fibres surface is dull or bright. Dull surfaces reflect more light while bright tends to transmit light and make the fibre more transparent.
“As mention underneath title
of textile will be text soon for universal perusal”
COMPOSITE TEXTILE INDUSTRY
WORKING PATTERN:
TEXTILE FIBRES AND
SPINNING:
TEXTILE DYED FIBRES AND
SPINNING:
TEXTILE FIBRES BLENDS AND
SPINNING:
TEXTILE FIBRES AND DIFFERENT
COUNT SPINNING:
TEXTILE DIFFERENT SPINNING
METHODS:
TEXTILE YARN:
TEXTILE CONVERSION FACTOR:
TEXTILE FABRIC SETTING:
TEXTILE CALCULATION
MESUREMENT:
TEXTILE CALCULATION FOR
LENGTH AND WEIGHT:
TEXTILE WOVEN FABRIC
DESIGNING:
TEXTILE DYEING:
TEXTILE PRINTING:
TEXTILE PROCESSING AND
GRADING:
TEXTILE FABRIC MARKET AND
USER:
GIFT WEBSITE: www.gift-india.com
GIFT Email: info@gift-india.com
GIFT Phone No. 079
26463702
Mobile: 09825698294
ADDRESS: White Cross
Building, 15 Patel Society,
Near CII Building,
Panchvati, Gulbaitekra Road,
Ahmedabad– 380006 Gujarat
INDIA.
All copy rights are
reserved by Gandhi Institute of Fashion and Textile (GIFT GANDHI NGOs),
Ahmedabad. By Khalid Ameer Rafique, Ahmedabad, Gujarat, India.